| Abstract: | Because of highly dissipative conditions and strong alongshore gradients in foreshore beach morphology, wave run-up data collected along the central Oregon coast during February 1996 stand in contrast to run-up data currently available in the literature. During a single data run lasting approximately 90 min, the significant vertical run-up elevation varied by a factor of 2 along the 1.6 km study site, ranging from 26 to 61% of the offshore significant wave height, and was found to be linearly dependent on the local foreshore beach slope that varied by a factor of 5. Run-up motions on this high-energy dissipative beach were dominated by infragravity (low frequency) energy with peak periods of approximately 230 s. Incident band energy levels were 2.5 to 3 orders of magnitude lower than the low-frequency spectral peaks and typically 96% of the run-up variance was in the infragravity band. A broad region of the run-up spectra exhibited an f-4 roll off, typical of saturation, extending to frequencies lower than observed in previous studies. The run-up spectra were dependent on beach slope with spectra for steeper foreshore slopes shifted toward higher frequencies than spectra for shallower foreshore slopes. At infragravity frequencies, run-up motions were coherent over alongshore length scales in excess of 1 km, significantly greater than decorrelation length scales on moderate to reflective beaches. Copyright 2004 by the American Geophysical Union. |
| Genre: | Article |
| ProdID: | 70027021 |
| Citation Author: | Ruggiero, P.; Holman, R. A.; Beach, R. A. |
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| Citation Issue: | 6 |
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| Citation Language: | English |
| Citation Larger Work Title: | Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans |
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| Citation Search Results Text: | Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach; 2004; Article; Journal; Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans; Ruggiero, P.; Holman, R. A.; Beach, R. A. |
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| Citation Volume: | 109 |
| Citation Year: | 2004 |
| Type: | citation/reference |
| Text: | Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach; 2004; Article; Journal; Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans; Ruggiero, P.; Holman, R. A.; Beach, R. A. |
| URL (THUMBNAIL): | http://pubs.er.usgs.gov/thumbnails/outside_thumb.jpg |
| URL (DIGITAL OBJECT IDENTIFIER): | http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002160 |
| Date Other: | Thu, 1 Jan 2004 00:00 -0600 |
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