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Wave energy saturation on a natural beach of variable slope.

Journal of Geophysical Research
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Abstract

Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Local depth increased with local slope and was independent of deepwater wave steepness.-from Authors
Publication type Article
Publication Subtype Journal Article
Title Wave energy saturation on a natural beach of variable slope.
Series title Journal of Geophysical Research
Volume 90
Issue C6
Year Published 1985
Language English
Larger Work Type Article
Larger Work Subtype Journal Article
Larger Work Title Journal of Geophysical Research
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