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Breakpoint-forced and bound long waves in the nearshore: A model comparison

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Edited by: Anon

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Abstract

A finite-difference model is used to compare long wave amplitudes arising from two-group forced generation mechanisms in the nearshore: long waves generated at a time-varying breakpoint and the shallow-water extension of the bound long wave. Plane beach results demonstrate that the strong frequency selection in the outgoing wave predicted by the breakpoint-forcing mechanism may not be observable in field data due to this wave's relatively small size and its predicted phase relation with the bound wave. Over a bar/trough nearshore, it is shown that a strong frequency selection in shoreline amplitudes is not a unique result of the time-varying breakpoint model, but a general result of the interaction between topography and any broad-banded forcing of nearshore long waves.
Publication type Conference Paper
Publication Subtype Conference Paper
Title Breakpoint-forced and bound long waves in the nearshore: A model comparison
ISBN 0872629333
Volume 1
Year Published 1993
Language English
Publisher Publ by ASCE
Publisher location New York, NY, United States
Larger Work Title Proceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference
First page 860
Last page 867
Conference Title Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Conference Location Venice, Italy
Conference Date 4 October 1992 through 9 October 1992
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