Field observations of alongshore runup variability under dissipative conditions in presence of a shoreline sandwave

Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans
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Abstract

Video measurements of runup were collected at low tide along several profiles covering an alongshore distance of 500 m. The morphology displayed a complex shape with a shoreline sandwave in the lower beach face of about 250 m long mirrored in the inner sandbar. Wave conditions were stationary and moderate (offshore height of 2 m and peak period of nearly 13 s) but yet dissipative. Runup energy was dominated by infragravity frequencies. Alongshore variations in runup (by a factor up to 3) observed both in the incident and infragravity bands were much higher than reported previously (e.g., Guedes et al., 2012, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2012.08.022; Ruggiero et al., 2004, https://doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002160) while the alongshore variations in other environmental parameters (e.g., foreshore beach slope) appear to be much lower. Our data suggest that the beach morphology in the inner surf zone plays a crucial role by inducing rapid and significant modification in the incident wave pattern and the alongshore coherence length scales were consistent with the typical alongshore length scale of the morphology.

Additional publication details

Publication type Article
Publication Subtype Journal Article
Title Field observations of alongshore runup variability under dissipative conditions in presence of a shoreline sandwave
Series title Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans
DOI 10.1029/2018JC014109
Edition Online First
Year Published 2018
Language English
Publisher AGU
Contributing office(s) St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center